i rang bultaco uk yesterday thinking they give me the wrong ignition. i think its the woodroof key not siding in proper. it gose on so far but its not going all the way. but im having problems puting the flywheel on. i have got the electronic ignition of bultaco uk. i am sure the more experienced bultaco guys in here may have a better process. i have re-read this a couple of times and think that i have listed everything. you could do away with all this and go for an electronic ignition with the added bonus of a massive spark. Stick with it and hope that this helps, it works for me, my 198 starts within 3 kicks. But seriously, scour fleabay, auto jumbles for another flywheel that you can take the centre out of by drilling the rivets out. dont worry mate if you are gonna own a bully for a while you will get quite expert at this. If it is, great, tighten the fly wheel fully and remove the tool from the spark plug hole. Repeat 1 through to 3 to check that it is correct. (6) replace the flywheel (make sure that the flywheel is fully on the shaft) i put the nut back on and do it up. you only need to move it slightly, tighten the 3 screws. (5) Turn the stator clockwise to advance the timing or couter clockwise to retard the timing. slacken off the 3 screws holding the stator plate in position. check the measurement on the plunger if its within the tolerences great, if not then the timing need to be adjusted. (3) turn the flywheel so that the bulb just goes out. make sure the ammeter has an audible continuity facility and crocodile clips. really is worth making one of these or buying an ammeter. you can make one by wiring a bulb and battery in series and connect the wires to the black and red wires coming out of the stator. to check this with any accuracy, you need to use an ammeter or a simple tester. (2) turn the flywheel counterclock wise slowly untill the plunger in the tool has dropped 2.8mm to 3.0mm this is when the points should be starting to seperate. this is the top dead centre of the pistons stroke. turn the flywheel by hand so that the piston pushes the plunger in the tool to furthest it will go before dropping down again. (1) take out the spark plug and insert the timing tool finger tight. i have a micrometer timing tool which is a little more expensive but more accurate. these are cheap and can be got from bultaco uk or sammy millers. to get this measurement you will need a timing tool. next thing is to set the timing which is 2.8mm to 3.00mm before top dead centre (BTDC) this is where the piston needs to be in the barrel when the points are closing. most probably find the gap is incorrect, if its within the tolerences above ok, if not try adjusting again, will take a few stabs to get it right, stick with it as this needs to be bang on, to be able to set the timing. using another screwdriver do up the larger screw and recheck the points gap. remove the feeler gauge still maintaining the points gap by holding the small screw with a screw driver. the feeler gauge should slightly drag on the face of the points. with another screwdriver turn the smaller screw to adjust the gap in the points. adust the gap by slightly undoing the larger of the 2 screws on the points. turn the flywheel by hand so that the points are fully open. you adjust the points through the window using 2 small screwdrivers and a set of feeler gauges set within the tolerences above. i will assume that you dont have this luxury. Bit fiddly this bit, as you only have the little window in the flywheel to work through, unless you have an old flywheel that you can take apart and just use the cam. Offered at a very reasonable reserve, this motorcycle is ideal for use, as it was intended, in any of the numerous events presently organised for the classic off road rider.Firstly you have to set the correct gap at the points, which is 0.35 to 0.45mm or 0.013 to 0.017 in old money. In what looks to be it's original blue colour scheme the bike on display here seems to be in good usable, whilst not mint, condition. Thought by contemporary riders to be Bulto's best looking dirt bike ever it also was considered a serious competitor in dirt track, scrambles and moto-x, until eclipsed by the later 500 cc version, the 250 producing a strong usable power output. Pur Sang can be roughly translated as Pure Bred and in this instance it is rather appropriate as, coming from a long hierarchy of competition machinery developed by Bulto in the Barcelona works from 1958, the Pursang certainly was. This example of Francesco Bulto's off road design genius, the Pursang, is thought to be of 1972 vintage and is one of the more well known models produced by the Spanish manufacturer, along with the Metralla GT road bikes and Sherpa trials irons of that era.
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